Above the Tagus: Abrantes

Abrantes, in the Médio Tejo, rises on a hill above the north bank of the River Tagus, crowned by its castle. Climb the keep, see the Gothic tombs of a powerful noble family in a castle church, and explore an archaeology and art museum in a 16th-century convent.

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Abrantes, in the Médio Tejo sub-region, rises on a hill on the north bank of the River Tagus, crowned by its castle, and has long been regarded as an important military position over the Tagus valley. Its name is thought to come from the Latin Aurantes, perhaps a reference to alluvial gold in the Tagus.

Roman mosaics, coins and remains of aqueducts have been found around the town. Afonso I took Abrantes and its castle from the Moors in 1148, and the town received its charter in 1179. King Manuel I spent long periods here, granted a new charter around 1510, and two of his sons, the princes Fernando and Luís, were born in Abrantes. In November 1807 the French general Junot captured the town, and Napoleon rewarded him with a ducal title.

Start at the castle, where you can climb the keep and stroll through the Governors' Palace, the castle garden and the Outeiro de São Pedro. Inside the walls, the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo, a National Monument, was probably founded in 1215 and rebuilt in the 15th century by Diogo de Almeida, who turned it into the pantheon of the powerful Almeida family. Look for the 15th-century Gothic tombs of the first Counts of Abrantes, Sevillian cuerda-seca tiles and traces of frescoes; today the church houses a modern display on the family's history.

Down in the town, the Iberian Museum of Archaeology and Art occupies part of the 16th-century Convent of São Domingos, restored to a design by the architect Carrilho da Graça. Its permanent exhibitions span Roman sculpture, prehistory, the Bronze and Iron Ages, antiquity, a treasure room, medieval and early modern art, and the paintings of Maria Lucília Moita.

Abrantes sits on important rail and road links, at the junction of the Lisbon–Badajoz railway with the line to Guarda, and close to the A23 motorway.

Craft beer in Abrantes is still a rare find, which makes tracking down a local glass part of the adventure. After a day of castle views and riverside history, ask around for something freshly brewed.

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Frequently asked questions

You can climb the keep and stroll through the Governors' Palace, the castle garden and the Outeiro de São Pedro. Inside the walls, the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo, a National Monument, holds 15th-century Gothic tombs of the first Counts of Abrantes, Sevillian cuerda-seca tiles, traces of frescoes and a display on the Almeida family.

Yes, the Iberian Museum of Archaeology and Art, in part of the 16th-century Convent of São Domingos, restored to a design by the architect Carrilho da Graça. Its permanent exhibitions span Roman sculpture, prehistory, the Bronze and Iron Ages, a treasure room, medieval and early modern art, and the paintings of Maria Lucília Moita.

Roman mosaics, coins and aqueduct remains have been found nearby. Portugal's first king took the town and castle from the Moors in 1148, and it received its charter in 1179. Manuel I spent long periods here, and in November 1807 the French general Junot captured it. Its name may come from the Latin Aurantes.

By train or by road: Abrantes sits at the junction of the Lisbon–Badajoz railway with the line to Guarda, and close to the A23 motorway. It rises on a hill above the north bank of the Tagus, so the castle keep offers wide views over the valley it has long guarded.